At Valentino Couture, the magic is in the illusion | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
At Valentino Couture, the magic is in the illusion | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
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In his newest collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli goes back to the "habitat" of Haute Couture. Entitled Le Salon (French for The Dwelling Room), it both pays homage to custom —& the time-honoured rites, methods and rituals that underpin Couture — and proposes the arrival of a brand new sort of Haute Couture, one that's reflective of contemporaneous values and wishes.
In addressing these values and wishes, Piccioli debuts a far much less flamboyant assortment than we've come to anticipate from the Maison. Current couture seasons have seen monumental floral motifs, extravagant robes and beaded jeans take the runway. For SS24, Piccoli as an alternative presents a contemporary and, surprisingly, largely wearable collection. Key seems to be embrace tailor-made pants, scooped blouses, duster coats and clothes — introduced virtually like pop artwork — with contrasting colours blocked and styled together in shades of oxblood, teal, mustard and orange. Despite lacking in embroidery or glamorous detailing, these pieces got the utmost consideration all through their creation. The tailoring was meticulous and every reduce, stitch and line clearly intentioned. The show notes recognise that, "Haute Couture is an obsessive quest for perfection, allied with a passion for the hand." Even in probably the most visually simplistic items, the handiwork of Piccioli's group shines.
This technical finesse so central to Haute Couture is underscored within the assortment's more avant-garde pieces: a men's coat that seems to be crocodile skin, however is admittedly discs bonded with patent leather; tiny organza strips organized to seem like feathers. As the artistic director told media throughout a preview, "The magic comes from the phantasm."
Watch the complete Valentino spring/summer time 2024 Haute Couture show under.
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